Growing Magic Mushrooms: The Easy Way

Growing your own psychedelics at home is the best method to ensure a steady supply of these substances since there is no other way to do it. How to grow magic mushrooms

Growing magic mushrooms can be a very rewarding experience, and if done right, it can lead to an endless supply of magic mushrooms that can be used for micro-dosing or for self-discovery and growth.

We will discuss the principles of producing magic mushrooms using the PF Tek technique throughout this course.
I’ll give you some insight into how I optimize the growing environment to produce huge numbers of mushrooms without having to make complicated setups or spend a lot of money on pricey equipment.

This article is meant to serve as a foundation for novice mushroom growers who are seeking the quickest and easiest way to get started growing mushrooms.

What You Need to Have in Order to Cultivate Magic Mushrooms at Home

1. Magic mushroom spores — Here’s where you should buy your spores
2. Glass jars — Choose the jars with a wide opening (either a half pint or a full pint).
3. An incubator — you can buy an incubator or make your own
4. A fruiting chamber — you can buy one or make your own
5. Substrate — vermiculite & brown rice flour
6. Filtered or distilled water — Your inoculum will get contaminated if you drink tap water.
7. Perlite — for water retention
8. A spray bottle — for keeping your substrate moist
9. 70% Isopropyl alcohol cleaning solution — 70 percent works better than 90 percent
10. A lighter — Bic works, but I prefer using a Zippo so I can leave it on
11. Nitrile gloves — for sterility
12. Tinfoil
13. Measuring cup      
14. Large mixing bowl
15. A pressure cooker or Instant Pot
16. Thermometer

Words and Concepts Relating to the Culture of Mushrooms

• Substrate — Now we have the substrate for the mycelium to grow on, as well as its food supply.
• Inoculation — The process of introducing the desired organism into its growing environment.
• Mycelium — The underground body of fungi made up of millions of tiny threads.
• Sterilization — Treatment of a substrate with extremely high heat (>121°C) to eliminate all forms of life.
• Pasteurization — The process of killing most forms of life within a substrate through high heat (>70ºC).
• Incubation — The period needed for the mycelium to grow and colonize a substrate jar.
• Fruiting chamber — The container used to stimulate the growth of mushrooms (fruiting bodies).

Where Can I Buy Magic Mushroom Spores?

The only product not often carried by supermarkets or hardware shops is magic mushroom spores, but everything else on the list can be found with little effort.

The spores of a fungus may be thought of as the “seed” of the organism. Mold forms when spores proliferate and colonize a suitable substrate.

In most of the United States, Canada, and Europe, magic mushrooms are illegal but the spores are not.

This is due to the absence of psilocybin and psilocin in magic mushroom spores, the active hallucinogenic chemicals.

In light of this, several websites now offer magic mushroom spores for sale. Spore syringes are the most common method of distribution, however, spore prints and liquid cultures are also available.

Syringes are recommended since they make inoculating the final substrate jars a breeze.

Spores 101 (Canada & United States) and Spores Lab — USA are my two go-to spore suppliers (Canada only).

What Are the Best Strains of Magic Mushrooms for Beginners?

• Golden Teacher — Best strain for beginners
• Penis Envy — Strongest strain

Step 1: Preparing the Substrate

Timeframe — 30 minutes

Prepare the substrate on which your mushrooms will feed and develop as the first stage. Fungi inhabit their meal. They extend mycelia across the substrate and produce enzymes that degrade it so they may take the nutrients.

This stage entails establishing a basic food supply for the fungus to consume while its mycelial network expands.

In the first phases of their development, fungi will compete with other species, such as bacteria and mold.

Once established, Psilocybe cubensis is significantly more resilient than mold and bacteria, although it develops more slowly. If all three species are brought to a new substrate, the mold and bacteria will ten times outcompete the magic mushrooms. They dominate the substrate and impede the growth of magic mushrooms.

Hence, the goal is to sterilize the substrate such that the mushroom spores have a total monopoly on the food supply. Without having to contend with mold or bacteria, this enables your mushrooms to dominate the substrate.

There are other substrate formulations, but the simplest is the PF Tek technique. You may also use wild bird seed, rye grain, and several other ingredients.

We are going to discuss PF Tek since it is the simplest for beginners to achieve success with. It is the most resistant to mold and bacteria and facilitates later fruiting.

How To Prepare Your Substrate for PF Tek

Initially, PF Tek is an acronym for Psilocybe Fanaticus, which is a pseudonym for the late Robert McPherson, who conceived the concept. It blends the food supply, brown rice flour, with vermiculite and water.

The brown rice flour acts as nourishment for the fungus, while the vermiculite provides a framework for the mycelial network to develop.

The outcome is thick, white mycelium “cakes” that may be inserted straight into the fruiting chamber later. These cakes will immediately produce mushrooms.

Here’s how to configure it:

A) Mix Your Ingredients In A Large Bowl

There will be two parts vermiculite, two parts brown rice flour, and one part water in the mixture.

Begin by including vermiculite. You will need around 2 cups (500 mL) of vermiculite for 5 half-pint jars.

Then, add water and thoroughly combine it with vermiculite. It should be moist, but without standing water in the dish.

The last step is to include brown rice flour. Combine it completely. It should make a uniform layer of flour on top of the moist vermiculite.

B) Fill The Mason Jars With Substrate

Leave around 3 centimeters (1 inch) of space at the top of each jar before filling them with the substrate. Fill the remaining space with dry vermiculite. This is done to prevent the seals on the jar lids from becoming moist, which might result in infection.

C) Seal The Jars With Tin Foil

After the jars are filled with substrate, seal them with the lids. I propose inverting the jar lids so that the rubber seal faces upwards. This is because, after pressure cooking, the change in temperature adheres the lids to the jars, making it almost hard to remove them afterward. Placing the lids inverted prevents this from occurring.

In addition, cover the tops of the jars with aluminum foil. This helps maintain their sterility and prevents water from entering the pots during pressure cooking.

Within the majority of pressure cookers, there should be a fill line indicated. Add the containers, followed by water to the fill line.

If there is no fill line, pour enough water to immerse the jars about halfway. Do not completely submerge the jars in water.

Now that the jars are fully loaded with your substrate and sealed up, you must sterilize them to prepare them for inoculation. This is done using a pressure cooker. Instant Pots also work great for this, as they’re essentially just glorified pressure cookers.

In order to fully sterilize them, you need to let them run for about 30 minutes once adequate pressure is reached.

I also add a spacer at the bottom of the pressure cooker using some scrunched-up tin foil to lift the jars off the bottom of the cooker. This helps give them a more even distribution of heat and prevents the bottom of the jars from burning.

Bring the cooker up to temperature (it will start to release steam), and then start your timer for 30 minutes.

Once 30 minutes is complete, turn off the heat and give it a few hours to cool down.

Step 2: Inoculation

Timeframe — 30 minutes

This step entails adding mushroom spores to the habitat you’ve just established for their growth. This procedure is known as immunization.

The objective here is to introduce a modest amount of spores to each jar while preventing the presence of pollutants that would compete with the magic mushroom. At any one time, there are millions, if not billions, of mold spores floating in the air. This is true regardless of how tidy your home is. They drift in from the outside air, travel on our skin and clothing, and are brought in by our dogs after foraging in the yard.

These spores might outcompete our mushrooms and pollute our spawn jars if they enter the container. To inject the spores, you will need to briefly open the container. In this process, pollutants have the possibility to enter the container.

The trick to being successful during this stage is to keep the area as clean and sterile as possible:

1. Seal off a spare room or bathroom a few hours before inoculation
2. Clean the room with isopropyl alcohol, concentrating on the surface you’re going to be working on
3. Spray some aerosol disinfectant throughout the room before you begin
4. Wear gloves, and a mask, and put on a fresh set of clothing
5. Turn off or seal any vents to prevent the air from circulating during the inoculation
6. Make a sealed “glove box” to reduce exposure to ambient air

Obviously, you don’t have to do everything, but the more effort you make to keep the space clean, the more effective this step will be. At this period, you cannot be too clean.

The procedure for inoculating the jars is as follows:

A) Thoroughly Clean The Area

Before inoculating each jar, you must clean your hands and the working surface with alcohol.

Grab a sterilized jar, and wipe it down with alcohol too. 

B) Inject Some of the Spore Syringe Into the Jar

If you are using a spore syringe, which is suggested, remove it from its packaging and attach the needle tip. Take extreme care not to touch the tip.

Using your lighter, heat the syringe’s metal tip for several seconds. This will serialize the needle’s tip. Open the first jar after it has cooled and inject about 2 CC of the liquid into the syringe. Ensure that the needle tip extends beyond the first 2 or 3 cm of dry vermiculite so that it makes direct touch with the substrate.

Attempt to open the jar just enough to insert the syringe, rather than completely removing the cover. This will aid in avoiding infection.

Once this is done, seal the jar and cover the top in tin foil.

C) Rinse & Repeat

You will need to repeat this step for each jar individually. Each time, be sure to clean your hands, the table, and the jars with alcohol.

Furthermore, sterilize the needle with the lighter after each jar to minimize cross-contamination between jars. It’s tedious, but it’s essential if you want this to be successful.

Step 3: Incubation

Timeframe — 1–2 weeks

After inoculating your substrate with mushroom spores, the objective is to provide optimal circumstances for its growth. You may now relax and wait for it to be prepared.

The ideal conditions for Psilocybe cubensis during this stage are as follows:

• Humidity — High (>80%)
• Temperature — 20–28 ºC (68–82ºF)
• Light — None
• Airflow — Low or none

The easiest way to do this is to build what’s called an “incubator.”

There are several methods to construct an incubator, and you may even purchase one. In most instances, there is no need for such complexity. Just fill an opaque container (a paint bucket would do) with your inoculated jars and set it in a warm area of your home.

You only need to construct an incubator if you do not already have a dark, warm (but not hot) space in your home to store your substrate jars. The cabinets above the refrigerator are ideal for this.

Here’s a simple incubator design anybody can build for less than $30:

1. Find two identical containers (not clear)
2. Fill the bottom one about 30% full of water
3. Place an aquarium heater in the bottom bucket and turn it on
4. Add the second bucket inside the first one
5. Place your jars inside the second bucket and seal it up

Place the lid on top of the jars inside the incubator. Before proceeding, you must wait one to two weeks for the jars to get colonized with mycelium.

Inspect the jars once every several days. During the third or fourth day, white “threads” should begin to appear at the inoculation site. This is why it is advantageous to inoculate the jars on the side of the glass, so the mycelium can develop faster.

Search for indicators of contamination. This includes green or blue growth, highly fuzzy white growth (rather than thread-like development), or an oily, slippery appearance (bacteria).

If you discover any infected jars, remove them immediately from the incubator. If left in the incubator, they might transmit the contamination to additional jars.

When the jar is entirely filled with white mycelium, it is complete.

Step 4: Fruiting

After your jars have been completely colonized, you should commence fruiting. Creating the optimal environment for the mycelium to generate mushrooms, which are the reproductive organs of fungi, is required.

The ideal conditions for fruiting are as follows:

• Humidity — High (>80%)
• Temperature — 10–20 ºC (50–68ºF)
• Light — Low (indirect light)
• Airflow — Moderate

The best way to do this is to create what’s called a “fruiting chamber.”

Fruiting chambers may be bought or constructed using common home items. Using a translucent container (to let some light in) that allows some ventilation and maintains high humidity is the fundamental premise. There are several ideas for the design of fruiting chambers. I’ve tested almost all of them, and I’ve discovered that the simplest configurations usually provide the greatest results.

When things are too complicated, they tend to fail. If the aforementioned parameters are satisfied, your mushrooms will begin to develop. It is surprisingly simple to establish these conditions by sprinkling your substrate with water for hydration and placing the chamber in an area of your home that receives no direct sunlight.

Your mycelium has been living in a fully sterile environment up until this stage to prevent being destroyed by mold or bacteria.

Your mycelium is now robust and resistant to most fungal and bacterial incursions; thus, it no longer has to be maintained fully sterile.

Yet, it is essential to maintain the fruiting area clean in order to harvest as many mushrooms as possible. After expending their energy-generating mushrooms, they will ultimately begin to mold.

Here’s how to build a simple fruiting chamber for PF Tek:

1. Grab a clear container large enough to hold all of your substrate jars
2. Drill some small holes in the top and sides of the container to promote airflow
3. Wipe the entire container down with isopropyl alcohol and give it a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate
4. Fill the bottom 3 cm (1 inch) of the container with perlite
5. Add filtered or distillate water until the perlite is damp but not drenched. If there is extra water, be sure to drain it before proceeding.
6. Put the mycelium inside the container; either set the jars with the lids off or remove the mycelial cake from the jar and lay it on a jar lid at the bottom of the fruiting chamber.

Check on your mushrooms daily to determine their health. Remove the cap and use it as a fan to provide fresh air into the container. Using the spray bottle, spritz the perlite with distilled water to ensure that it remains wet.

Try to avoid directly spraying the cakes. If water accumulates on top of the cakes, bacterial development may occur.

After a few days, you should see the formation of little mushrooms on the cake’s edge. These little “pinheads” may cease to develop if you touch them.

Let your mushrooms continue developing until the veil at the base of the gill cap breaks; at this point, they are ready to be harvested.

Step 5: Harvesting & Drying

When your mushrooms are ready for harvesting, pinch off their bases. They should separate without much difficulty.

Only collect fully mature mushrooms. You may need to gather a few mushrooms daily until they are all harvested.

Place the freshly gathered magic mushrooms on a dry paper towel for a few days to allow them to dry. You may also use a dehydrator, but be careful to lower the temperature to its lowest level.

Your mushroom cakes will yield mushrooms for quite some time. Each generation of mushies is known as a flush.

After two or three flushes, the mushrooms may seem sparser or smaller. You may rejuvenate the cakes by submerging them in ice-cold water for around ten minutes and then returning them to your fruiting chamber.

If you see mold on any of your cakes, you should immediately remove the affected cake. A small amount of mold is harmless, but if you leave it in the chamber, it will spread to all of your baked goods. It is preferable to reduce your losses and eliminate them entirely.

All cakes will eventually lose their vitality and succumb to mold.

Troubleshooting Tips & Tricks

Mushroom cultivation does not need complication, since they generally propagate themselves. Other than setting the optimal circumstances for their growth, nothing more is required.

Despite this, many growers, both rookie and experienced may meet difficulties along the road.

These are some of the most typical problems growers encounter, along with some potential answers.

1. Mycelium Isn’t Growing in the Jars

You have infected your jars, but there are no indications of the formation of the white, threadlike mycelium.

There are a few potential causes for this, here are some of the main problems and how to fix them:

1. Incubation temperature is too low or too high — Insert a thermometer into your incubator and ensure that the temperature remains between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius. Inspect it throughout the warmest and coldest parts of the day.
2. Contaminated substrates — Sometimes contamination is difficult to recognize, but it will always prevent mushroom development, so if you continue to have problems, you should increase your sterilizing efforts at the inoculation stage.
3. Faulty spore syringes — Sometimes, the syringes you purchase are either tainted or never include any spores. Always purchase spore syringes from a reliable provider.
4. You’re not utilizing enough spores when you inoculate; try using more liquid while inoculating each jar; you may not be providing enough spores for the fungus to flourish in the substrate. I use around two CCs.

2. My Jars Keep Molding

The contaminated substrate will be the most typical issue you experience while cultivating mushrooms. This is true regardless of your level of expertise.

I have lost hundreds of jars due to contamination during the sterilization and inoculation phases, which is why I am so particular about being as thorough as possible. You can’t be too clean in this situation.

Employ copious amounts of alcohol, construct a glove box, or purchase a laminar flow hood to keep the air clear of mold spores.

You may also create self-sealing injection openings for your jar lids so that you never have to expose them to the air. Using a nail and high-temperature gasket seals from an auto parts store, this is accomplished.

Make holes in the jar lids and apply a generous amount of the gasket sealer. Let it dry thoroughly. The syringe may then be injected straight into these ports, which self-seal upon removal, reducing the likelihood of contamination.

3. Pinheads are Forming, but They Aren’t Growing into Mushrooms

There are a few things you can do if you observe little pinhead mushrooms growing, but they never seem to mature into full mushrooms:

1. Check the humidity — Low humidity might result in the failure of the pinheads. Ensure that the relative humidity remains at or above 80% by keeping your perlite wet with a spray bottle.
2. The pinheads were touched — if they’re touched or moved, the pinheads will stop growing, avoid touching the mushroom cakes as much as possible
3. Temperature is too high or too low — The pinheads will stop developing if they are touched or moved, so avoid handling the mushroom cakes as much as possible.
4. Poor airflow — This is a prevalent source of pinhead problems. Mushrooms exhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. If there is insufficient airflow, the mushrooms will cease growing mushrooms and enter survival mode to endure the lack of oxygen.

4. My BRF Cakes Keep Molding

All cakes will ultimately rot, but you should get at least two or three flushes out of them beforehand.

If your cakes are rotting before you can harvest mushrooms, you may need to take further measures to maintain a clean environment. Think about the location of your fruiting chamber. Is it located in a portion of the home where mold is prevalent?

You may choose to add filtration to your chamber by covering vent holes with polyfill or another filtering material.

Using reverse osmosis or distilled water in your spray container is also beneficial. You may also sterilize a few jars of water in your pressure cooker and use this water to spritz down your fruiting chamber

Best Books & Resources on Growing Magic Mushrooms

The growing of mushrooms is a vast issue. There are an infinite number of strategies for preparing substrates, constructing incubators, establishing fruiting chambers, and optimizing output. This essay would be several thousand words long if I were to discuss all of these ways.

Although this resource is a good starting point and explains the fundamentals, if you’re serious about pursuing this interest, I strongly suggest picking up one of these three books.

1. The Psilocybin Mushroom Bible: The Definitive Guide to Growing and Using Magic Mushrooms

If I could only suggest one book to a beginner mushroom grower, it would be this one. It is as huge as a textbook and very thorough.

It is comparable in quality to another book by Paul Stamets listed below, but it focuses only on the growing of magic mushrooms, without deviating into the cultivation of other kinds of mushrooms.

This book focuses on both basic and advanced techniques for mushroom growing. It provides a wealth of professional advice, as well as solutions to difficulties that may arise at each stage of production.

2. Psilocybin, Magic Mushrooms Grower’s Guide

(O. N. Oeric and O. T. Oss)

This is the first book on mushroom farming that I have ever read. It is straightforward and brief, and the strategies shown are really effective.

Dennis & Terence McKenna wrote it, although it was released under their pseudonyms. It was released in 1976 after the author studied entheogenic plants and fungi in the Amazon jungle. They discovered how indigenous societies were cultivating mushrooms and brought examples back to the United States, where they refined their technique.

The McKennas are credited with making psychedelic creation accessible to the entire population. That was the first time that these mushrooms could be grown outside of their native environment. Still regarded as authoritative on the subject of home gardening.

3. Growing Gourmet & Medicinal Mushrooms

(Paul Stamets)

This is the most thorough professional guide to producing medicinal mushrooms by a wide margin. It addresses the cultivation of Psilocybe cubensis as well as a number of other culinary and medicinal species.

The author, Paul Stamets, is regarded as the foremost expert in mushroom production. He is the originator of Fungi Perfecti, the author of a number of well-known publications about mushrooms, and a frequent speaker and instructor on mushroom technology, culture, and supplements.

Learn More: Advanced Magic Mushroom Cultivation

This article is only superficial. We have covered the fundamentals of mushroom cultivation, but there is much more to learn.

Like with everything things, mushroom growing may be as simple or as complicated as desired.

Trust me, I’ve tried every method in the book in an effort to optimize the process. This trial-and-error process has taught me that, for whatever reason, the simplest solutions always provide the best outcomes.

After spending thousands of dollars on pricey setups and specialized grow chambers, none of them have outperformed a basic shotgun fruiting chamber, which is essentially just a plastic tub with holes punched into the side for air to circulate (as outlined above). That is all!

When it comes to mushroom cultivation, I now adhere to the KISS philosophy: “Keep things simple, stupid.”

Having said that, there are a few strategies to enhance yield using more complex techniques without being too complicated.

Six Advanced Cultivation Techniques to Optimize Yields & Cut Costs

1. Rye Grain Spawn

The procedure for PF Tek, which utilizes brown rice flour, vermiculite, and water, is described in the preceding approach. It is the most straightforward and foolproof way to produce mushrooms. Each novice cultivator should begin with this technique before going on.

Nevertheless, PF Tek has limits. It generates a lesser yield than rye grain, and the mycelial phase cannot be perpetuated.

Rye grain is more difficult to cultivate and more prone to contamination, but it produces significantly higher yields and enables you to propagate your mycelium without purchasing new spore syringes for each batch.

After one jar of rye grain is full, it may be used to inoculate ten other jars, geometrically expanding your stock.

2. Monotubs

A monotube is the most straightforward “advanced method.” It requires inoculating the fruiting chamber’s bottom layer just before fruiting.

Monotubs offer very high yields and are easy to construct and maintain.

3. Laminar Flow Hood

A laminar flow hood is a piece of equipment, not a method. It works by passing air through a HEPA filter to eliminate all particles. This instrument is used during the inoculation phase to avoid jar contamination.

A few years back, I purchased one of them from Fungi Perfecti for around $400, and it dramatically altered the game for me. The level of contamination in my grain jars has drastically decreased.

4. Agar Plate Strain Selection

This is definitely a sophisticated method, but I’ve found it really useful for identifying the strongest strains prior to inoculation. This facilitates the cultivation of the most contaminant-resistant, fastest-growing, and mushroom-producing fungus. It also allows you to maintain your supply without purchasing more spores.

The procedure entails combining agar with water, sterilizing the solution, and then putting it onto Petri plates.

A drop of spore syringe or spores from previous cultivations is put on the agar plate and then placed in the incubator.

Following a few days, the mycelium will begin to grow throughout the agar’s surface.

Choose the areas with dense thread-like development, as opposed to those with fuzzy or random threading. Remove a little piece of this growth off the plate and place it in a new agar petri dish.

After the majority of the plate is covered with this robust mycelium, you may break it into smaller pieces in a laminar flow hood and put it straight into your rye grain jars.

5. Growing Magic Truffles

A magical truffle is unlike a magical mushroom.

Truffles are the subterranean section of fungus. Some mushroom species, like Tuber melanosporum, develop all of their reproductive tissue under the earth. This is in contrast to the traditional mushroom that grows above the soil’s surface.

In certain places, such as the Netherlands, only the subterranean components of the fungus are deemed legal, thus farmers have devised methods for forcing magic mushroom species to produce underground “mushrooms” instead of the above-ground version.

This is accomplished by fruiting the mushrooms in a container, as opposed to publicly like with magic mushrooms. The mushies may be stored in a jar with air holes for ventilation. Under these circumstances, the mushrooms will generate truffles rather than mushrooms.

If you wish to cultivate truffles, it is essential to seek certain types since not all species produce truffles. The optimal species for truffle cultivation are Psilocybe mexicana and Psilocybe amanuensis.

6. Spawn Bags

Another effective way of production is spawn sacks. These serve the same purpose as the jars, but they make fruiting simpler in the future. Depending on your preference, you may either put your mushrooms straight into the spawn bags or make holes at the side to allow the mushrooms to grow out of the bag. how to grow magic mushrooms

Spawn sacks are an inexpensive method for producing extremely large quantities of substrate. This is the approach often used by big mushroom greenhouses or other facility grow operations.

7. Self-Healing Injection Ports

This was mentioned briefly previously in the text. The concept entails making holes in jar lids and covering them with a rubber seal. The spore syringes may be shot straight via the port to inoculate the substrate, and the rubber seals quickly upon removal. This method minimizes greatly the likelihood of contamination during the inoculation phase.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is it Legal To Grow Magic Mushrooms?

It’s illegal to grow or possess magic mushrooms in most parts of the world.

Spores are permitted due to a legal loophole since the law prohibits the active chemicals, psilocybin, and psilocin, but not the spores themselves. Yet, both the mushroom fruiting bodies and the mushroom mycelium are unlawful.

Several regions of the globe have already decriminalized the growing of magic mushrooms. Cities such as Denver, Colorado, Vancouver, Canada, Oakland, and Santa Cruz, California, have decriminalized the use of magic mushrooms.

2. Can I Grow Amanita muscaria Mushrooms at Home?

Amanita muscaria is an independent species of hallucinogenic fungus apart from those containing psilocybin. It is less psychedelic and more neurogenic, which means it induces dreams.

It is a drug that creates very strange dreams and hallucinations resembling dreams.

Regrettably, nobody has been able to produce this fungus consistently as of yet. It has an intricate interaction with several tree species and ancient woodlands. They are endophytic, which means they reside inside the host tree’s roots.

Presently, the only method to get this fungus is by foraging in temperate woodlands. In most regions, they are most numerous in the autumn, although they may also be seen on occasion in the spring and summer.

3. How Long Does it Take To Grow Magic Mushrooms?

Depending on growing circumstances, strain selection, and methodologies, it takes around one to two months to cultivate magic mushrooms from start to finish. The PF Tek approach described above is the quickest way.

1. It takes 24 hours to prepare the substrate (accounting for the time needed for the substrate to cool down)
2. It takes 2 weeks for the mycelium to colonize during incubation
3. It takes 2–4 weeks to mature on the mycelium

4. What Temperature Do I Need For Incubating Magic Mushrooms?

The ideal incubation temperature for the majority of Psilocybe species is between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius (68 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit). This will enhance the mycelium’s quickest growth. how to grow magic mushrooms

5. What Temperature Do I Need For Fruiting Magic Mushrooms?

The best ripening temperature for magic mushrooms is 10 to 20 degrees Celsius (50 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit). Certain species may prefer higher temperatures, while others may choose colder ones.

If the fruiting temperature is very high, mushrooms will rot more quickly. If the temperature is too low, growth will be sluggish and yields will be diminished.

Conclusion: Why You Should Grow Your Own Mushrooms

The third wave of psychedelics is now sweeping the globe. Early civilizations started administering entheogen-containing herbs and fungi to one another for the purposes of divination and healing eons ago. how to grow magic mushrooms

The second wave began (and ended) in the 1960s with the advent of counterculture and hippie culture.

As more individuals become interested in the use of psychedelics for personal development, spirituality, and healing, we are now entering the third wave.

There is no better way to enter the psychedelic realm than to cultivate your own. The cultivation and use of enchanted mushrooms are risk-free, and they provide a vast diversity of existential and physical advantages.

Cultivating them yourself may bring us closer to nature, increase our knowledge of this great hallucinogenic chemical, and even save us money.
Related post on psilocybin mushroom cultivation